...the last 30% i cant peddle fast enough to contribute...should i want too.
For street riding, I think the easiest way to add pedaling is to reduce the voltage to 10S / 37V. With LiPo (or a very large pack of any other chemistry), the extra amps drawn at 36V / 37V (as compared to 44V / 48V) will not be a problem. Worst case is to have a small 10-Ah generic 1C LiFePO4 pack and geared for a high top-speed.
My immediate reaction to reading this, is that you should swap-in a larger pulley, but I see the chainstay interferes with doing that. The next thing to consider is swapping-in a larger motor-chainring, (both of these suggestions will reduce the pedal cadence by adding more motor-reduction while keeping 48V) but I see you are already running a fairly large tooth-count.
For
off-road it's great to keep the higher 48V, and swap in a larger gear-spread on the rear sprocket cassette to lower the bikes speed range for low-speed crawling on steep uphills (with the motor remaining cooler by staying in its top-RPMs), but that doesn't help the pedal-cadence. Christerljung is getting great off-road performance at 72V x 30A, but...in the upper half of the motor-RPMs it's pretty much just a scooter and the pedals are foot-rests.
If you are feeling ambitious, you could swap-in #25 / #219 chain on the primary. They are fairly quiet when exposed, and after you add a mud cover, they are as quiet as the belt (or so I've been told) The chain-primary swap will add significant reduction. it also has the benefit that you never need to worry about a power burst shredding the belt. Try to source a 12mm bore 11T/12T "B"-style sprocket, bore it yourself, or ask LightningRods if he has started making them yet. If not, you can buy a cheap #25 spocket off-the-shelf at a 10mm bore.
Soon, LightningRods has stated he's making motor-shafts that are already turned down to 12mm, and he will stock 12mm bore sprockets, plus 12mm bore jackshafts.