new eZip motor

[DrkAngel]

Yeah ... I recommended a trailer many a time!
Only reasonable place to carry your massive batteries, good place to mount your awkward motors too.
If you need cargo, way to go.

I like the idea of a trike for cargo, plenty of room under the basket for motor and batteries and lends itself well to added trailer. Hitch centered exactly between rear and trailer axles forces 4 rear wheels to track exactly over each other.

 

[calab]

He could still use motors on the bike with big wires going from the bicycle trailer to motors put battery and controller on the trailer and big motor wires

 

[latecurtis]

Will need an extra long and thick axel. A custom axel.

Don't forget the 90 mph gearing !

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Will need an extra long and thick axel. A custom axel.

Don't forget the 90 mph gearing !

Thanks.

LC. out.

OK, yeah ... that has gotta be the most ill-considered idea you've come up with ... so far!

 

[kuz]

Well, you've got to cut the man some slack. I stumbled on and read the whole thread over the Christmas break. LC's delivery is decidedly rough, but his ideas do show an inquisitive and curious mind behind them. I surely can appreciate it. My "common sence-dized" self is even a little jealous. I am just as stubborn but not as experimental.

I think LC means to have the trailer pivot only vertically with NO side-to-side motion altogether. That would give him a fighting chance to stay on an empty road at high speed and even do mild curves.

May not be the most ill-conceived idea IMHO. Out of everything else proposed so far this one offers the most surefire way to get killed. If implemented as stated.

It's a (rough) idea after all Can we improve/sedate it? Speed limited side-to-side pivoting? Or lifting bike's (single) rear wheel off the ground when speed exceeds a couple mph?

 

[kuz]

Well, you've got to cut the man some slack. I stumbled on and read the whole thread over the Christmas break. LC's delivery is decidedly rough, but his ideas do show an inquisitive and curious mind behind them. I surely can appreciate it. My "common sence-dized" self is even a little jealous. I am just as stubborn but not as experimental.

I think LC means to have the trailer pivot only vertically with NO side-to-side motion altogether. That would give him a fighting chance to stay on an empty road at high speeds and even do mild curves.

May not be the most ill-conceived idea so far but out of everything proposed this one is the most surefire way to get killed. If implemented as stated.

Before "sensibly" insisting on keeping the battery and stuff on the traler and moving just the motor to the bike, could we improve on/sedate this rough design to make it look feasible? Speed-limited side-to-side pivoting with controlled lean angle (the little drops on the bike's axle shown as trailer hookup might be intended to do this already?) Or, in keeping with the proposed design, lift bike's (not trike) rear wheel off the ground when speed exceeds a couple miles per hour? With brakes on the trailer and possibly a drag chute?
https://www.simpsonraceproducts.com/products/pilot-chute

 

[latecurtis]

http://www.simpsonmotorbikes.com/



The push trailer is just one of my ideas. They do exist and from the videos I watched they seem to run smoothly. But never saw one do 90 mph. :lol:

Most e bike members gave up on chain drive motors , especially brush chain drive. Chain alignment can be tricky and is not a really smooth operation. Motor sprockets are prone to wear and tear and chains require maintenance and lubrication.

Also some ES members were concerned about a chain coming off at high speeds caught in the spokes of a front wheel flipping the bike and rear chain doing damage to the operator.

All the above could be eliminated by simply converting to a belt drive system. Also in the case of brushed motors you can hook more than one up to the same belt or chain using one single controller. You can not do that with brushless motors. Brush motors are around $60 to $80 for 1,000W. Brushless motors are about double that.

For example two 36V - 1,000W brush motors can be over volted to 48 or 53V for > 3 kilowatts easily and with an inexpensive controller. < $200 for a 45 mph e bike + a belt drive system. If you can find the parts or make them you got 45 mph on a shoestring budget.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284464503680?



I even considered a 3D printer to print the parts but metal printers are not mainstream and pricey and would need a really large one for the wheel pulley. This was about a year ago but none of my ideas sparked any interest on this post. The FX - 75 - 5 motor is belt driven but no idea where to order a belt or how much $$$$$.

A 36V or 48V brush Unite motor / motors would probably be easier to do. For example a 3,000 rpm 36V motor would be grossly over geared at 50V and 4,800 rpm and would require a 120+ tooth wheel sprocket. If gear reduction is done with a belt drive system why not put two 36V - 1,000W brush in the rear and one on the front. Then run 53V. Total power > 4,000W. Gearing 50 mph. Total cost < $300 ?????

I also really like that idea.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLjSSx9X8hs&t=1029s

I never welded anything though. With all the big pot holes out there an e bike with car wheels is very desirable. Also shorter chain drive designs like that are very interesting. In situations where a longer chain than in that video is needed then a belt drive is the way to go. Chain tensioners are tricky and never had any luck with them.

Any feedback on those two subjects is welcome. I am looking at a blown up 250cc or 400cc motocross type dirt bike with heavy duty suspension to do 90 mph safely with the FX - 75 - 5 motor. I will still require the assistance of a professional welder though to mount the motor to the frame.

For really long road trips where a ton of batteries for > 100 miles range between charging , the push trailer would be the way to go. It might still happen some day. 25 to 30 mph would probably be the limit though. However I did see a 10.000W push trailer on YouTube awhile back but could not find it now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ivpYYFZhy4

That is made out of wood. Basically you could hook up four or six motors all to one chain as long as brushed. The thing is though the longer and heavier the trailer the greater chances of wrecking around a corner at high speeds. Great for long straight roads but on corners might need brakes on the trailer as well as the bike that can work together. Otherwise it could end in that train wreck DA talks about. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Chalo]

Most e bike members gave up on chain drive motors , especially brush chain drive. Chain alignment can be tricky and is not a really smooth operation. Motor sprockets are prone to wear and tear and chains require maintenance and lubrication.

Um, okay... but there are still a lot of chain drive e-bikes, scooters and such out there, though. Basically all of them with mid drives, for example. And that's not counting the 99.9+ percent of bikes that use chain drive for pedal propulsion.

All the above could be eliminated by simply converting to a belt drive system.

So, how many of them do that? And how many of those use a V-belt rather than a toothed belt?

Based on this number, does using a V-belt seem like a good idea, or more likely a bad idea?

 

[kuz]

Also some ES members were concerned about a chain coming off at high speeds caught in the spokes of a front wheel flipping the bike and rear chain doing damage to the operator.

You are planning to use chain drive on the trailer, not on the bike front wheel. If you her anywhere close to 90 mph a slightest misalignment between the trailer thrust vector and the bike own CG will drag you off the road in a way you wouldn't want. When (not if) such misalignment happens, you'd actually want the chain jam the trailer wheel so it'll emulate a drag chute.

Chain misalignment is the least of your problems with this setup.

How do you plan to keep trailer's thrust pushing the bike forward instead of sideways? Low speed powered trailer setups rely on friction between rear bike tire and the road which allows to recover from small vector misalignments. At the power level you need to get to 90 the trailer will overpower your ability to handle it before you even have a chance to react.

Unless you lock out side-to-side articulation. But then you can't turn.

Doesnt meant a fully articulated powered trailer can't work. An example pow of a working setup: pusher locomotive. First working powered flight was on a pusher. Rails are impractical, but something may be dreamt up? I am just not deft enough for the task...

 

[Chalo]

Unless you lock out side-to-side articulation. But then you can't turn.

Turning should be possible, by skidding whichever wheel of the locked pair has less traction (probably the trailer wheel). It's not a good solution, but it is what will happen.

 

[latecurtis]

Welcome back Chalo.

Good to hear from you. Happy new years.

Turning should be possible, by skidding whichever wheel of the locked pair has less traction (probably the trailer wheel). It's not a good solution, but it is what will happen.

I think the shorter the trailer the better. locking out side to side articulation is a must do as then it wont jackknife around a corner. Also a single wheel trailer should turn easier and should be close to the back of the rear wheel. You could still stack batteries vertically and even attach the top to a heavy duty rear steel rack and basket.

Way back in the first 100 pages or so I actually attached the rear of a small shopping cart to the rear cargo basket. :lol: Then went out scrapping metal. :lol: I hauled over 100 pounds but still needed my friend with a pick up truck to deliver it to the scrap yard as there was a very steep hill to get there. Steep hills are the weak link. trailer brakes that work with the e bike brakes would be a non negotiable feature.

The biggest issue for me is hauling batteries up and down the stairs. Two trips required if I run SLAs and LIFEPO4. Also two trips to haul 20S LTO. Three flights of stairs. I really need solar panels on the roof of the van and a DC to AC inverter so I can just charge all my batteries out in the van. The three SLAs and three 12V lawn motor batteries for a solar power bank.

I just got back from Wall-Mart. I needed 1 - 1/4" screws to finish the 20S - LTOs. I also got stickers and a bunch of magic markers. I will be color coding where all the balance wires are going. I am using labels between each series connection and using the markers to color the labels. I should have the correct color for each balance wire.

I also got all the 10 gauge ring connecters I will need as well as 18 to 16 gauge for the balance wires. I should have everything I need for the 20S - LTOs except 60/40 solder for the bullets which I will be soldering to the 10 gauge wire. The bullets will be female and have two male bullets connected to a XT60 plug to run. The plan is to connect the negative power wire to a 60 amp in line fuse. When I pick up the solder I will get some wood putty and a quart of flat black primer. I cant use spray inside my e bike workshop as stinks up the apartment.

A small green wire will connect the two 10S - LTO packs for 20S. The 54.6V charger has an XT 60 so will use that with the wiring harness. That wiring harness runs most of my e bikes except for the Currie. That has male bullets hooked to each DC breaker but has double protection as a 60 amp inline fuse between battery/batteries and the controllers plus the DC breakers.

I took the 26" Diamondback Outlook with the dual Bafang motors. That bike with both motors weighs less than 40 pounds. Probably my lightest e bike. The forks are steel. Not sure about the frame. It is a vintage 90s style. Short frame. There is no possible way I could run the SLAs on the top of the 12S LIFE packs. It is perfect for short trips and is ok for small hills with dual geared hub motors. Acceleration is sweet but top speed is about 20 mph.

It is a very reliable street legal e bike. Not junk or a crappy build. That e bike could last forever as Bafang motors are not only reliable but can be rebuilt. Also for short trips < 6 miles the 12S LIFEPO4 packs that are considered questionable on this post are basically perfect for that job and probably capable of at least 3,000 cycles or more. I left the multi meter on so battery is dead but the 12S - LIFE pack charged to full with the 10 amp charger in about 15 minutes.

When there is daylight and decent weather I will test the Currie with the 12S - LIFE in parallel with the SLAs. Only the Currie is capable of hauling that many batteries as is a large frame with a long top bar. Also the seat goes high enough that the LTOs should fit under it. The 26" dual suspension might work also but that will be run exclusively by 20S - LTO as well as the 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless motor.

As soon as I am finished with the LTOs I will be running that and then removing the front Bafang from the 26" dual suspension and installing the 750W - 480 rpm - 36V chain drive with the new 11T motor sprocket for standard bike chain. Gearing should be

480 rpm / 36V = 13.3 * 48V = 640 rpm. With a 20T freewheel gearing will be 27 mph according to the top gear sprocket calculator by Electric scooter parts.

Thanks for posting guys.

LC. out.

 

[DAND214]

Happy New Year to all.

 

[kuz]

Turning should be possible, by skidding whichever wheel of the locked pair has less traction (probably the trailer wheel). It's not a good solution, but it is what will happen.

Indeed, it has been tried:
https://silodrome.com/kettenkrad-nsu-sd-kfz-2/

It used steering wheel for small turns, engaging track brakes (tank style) for extreme turns only. I assume track brakes couldn't be used at high speed this thingy was able to attain (55 mph) so it must have been steered entirely by the front wheel at any appreciable speed.

It needs to be noted this Kfz. 2 had, you know, a specific use case. The only way to motivate _me_ to crank it up to 55 would be to have a machinegun shooting my way from behind.

a single wheel trailer should turn easier and should be close to the back of the rear wheel.

Amen to that.

You could still stack batteries vertically and even attach the top to a heavy duty rear steel rack and basket.

Now you need to decide whether it is a mule for hauling recyclables or a dragster. You could pile up stuff on it for low speed hauling alright but at speed it'll twist the hitch right off even with straight line riding. To go fast you you need to keep trailer's CG at about the same height as the hitch joint, thus containing luggage carrying options.

Still, doing back to DrkAngel remark, 90 mph is suicidal for a veh designed around the concept of a cheap bike pushed by overpowered trailer. Survailablilty rate in high speed auto accidents improved greatly with the advent of self-tightening seat belts and air bags. As long as the rider remains _inside_ the vehicle. Otherwise it is almost certain "kaput."

A "non-cheap" two-wheeled bike with a pusher for 90 mph service would be something like a "fly by wire" system with automatically controlled powered roll/yaw for the trailer (relative to the bike) and likely an absolute roll/yaw gyroscope-based instruments for the "bike" itself. Plus precise speed and acceleration sensors for the vehicle. Plus an ejection seat for unavoidable mishaps since brakes will be of no use. All this makes it similar to stealth fighter jets too aerodynamically unstable for humans to fly them the old way. Different use case, you know. Where is fun and what's the point. And then the cost...

 

[latecurtis]

OK.

I will not be building anything capable of jackknifing. I see trailers all the time that swivel. Only one single point of contact.

I wont build anything like that. Especially > 30 mph.

I will go with four points of contact as well as a single wheel. The single wheel will turn no problem as little contact with the ground. Also the four points of contact should keep the trailer drive wheel the same height as the rear bike wheel , therefore no hopping and a smooth ride. It should take about 5 minutes to hook it up and tighten four nuts with a ratchet.

Obviously if I were to use the FX - 75-5 motor I would not need three motors. The illustration is three Unite - 1,000W brush motors. One heavy duty 410 motorcycle chain. The steel connecting will be thick steel. It will be super sturdy and a shelf over top of the motors will hold the batteries.

This is still a rough design. Not sure when I will build it. The first step is a very strong mountain bike frame. Steel like the Currie. Nothing that will snap. Then a heavy duty super long axel installed in the rear wheel. The third step is a heavy duty rear rack designed to attach flat steel bar to on each side.

The sides of the trailer where the drive wheel axle goes thru will be thick steel as well. It will bolt to pressure treated 2 by 6s and double 3/4" PT plywood for the bottom and the shelf for the batteries. No screws. Heavy duty carriage bolts will hold it together.

It will turn a corner easily. It wont jackknife and will go like a bat out of hell. :lol: :lol: When you ride it remember to bring a plastic bag , TP , clean under ware and a pair of drawers. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Chalo]

I will not be building anything capable of jackknifing. I see trailers all the time that swivel. Only one single point of contact.

So let me see if I'm getting this right. You assume that everybody else in the entire world who makes trailers is doing it wrong, and not that you're doing it wrong.

Good luck with that.

You're all set to learn things if you're open to it.

 

[tomjasz]

I will not be building anything capable of jackknifing. I see trailers all the time that swivel. Only one single point of contact.

So let me see if I'm getting this right. You assume that everybody else in the entire world who makes trailers is doing it wrong, and not that you're doing it wrong.

Good luck with that.

You're all set to learn things if you're open to it.

And that sir is the same pattern for 7800 posts and responses.

 

[latecurtis]

And that sir is the same pattern for 7800 posts and responses.

Well.

I like to kick around different ideas. Look at it like an EV think tank. The greatest inventions in the world came from inside the human brain. someone had to think it up. Weigh the pros and cons. Then do a rough blueprint. Share it in hopes of improvement.

There is nothing stopping Tomjasz from sharing some of his e bike building secrets. How he builds his cool triangle racks or where he orders them. Exactly how his e bikes are clean factory builds. I want to know how to build at least three clean professional builds. BUT Tomjasz would rather whine how my post sucks. That sucks as he did show some of his builds and they looked great.

A push trailer is just one idea.

I like the idea of car wheels on an electric motorcycle. If enough power and good suspension highway speeds could be obtained relatively safe as what car tires are designed for. 250cc or 400cc dirt bike frame then modified for car wheels. Add the FX - 75 - 5 motor and that is my future dream ride. Waiting on Telsa batteries though as my LTOs will only last a couple miles at 90 mph.

For a push trailer though ???

If someone is just pedaling around town a couple 250W razor scooter motors will do the trick with any type of hook up. A mop handle or stick of wood. I even saw a tree branch. Only flat ground though.

Not for high speed.

My design is basically building a two foot or 30 inch extension of the bike. Not an actual trailer. Maybe a hybrid trailer. It is basically a third wheel with steel frame work around it. Probably good for 70 pounds safely. 90 pounds would be pushing your luck. Handling with a single wheel should be great. Two wheels NOT.

Basically a powered sidecar with a 18" wheel could work but handling / steering would not be nearly as good as a small single wheel positioned behind the rear bike wheel.

I thought it up way back when I was looking at AmpFlow motors as they need gear reduction. > 5,000 rpm at 24 to 36V. Basically I was just thinking anyway possible to hook up a third 12" wheel for gear reduction. For highway speeds > 60 mph the thing should work. Kind of reminds me of a dragster. But in reverse. Not as long though. It could be a lot longer though as a single wheel will turn easily.

You could hook up about eight motors in a row and PT 2 by 6S on each side. Bolted to the steel which bolts to the bike frame like my illustration. Would need kick stands so it don't tip over until you hook it to the bike and then might need a extra large kick stand on either side of the bike. Once it gets rolling should stabilize.

I will build it close to my illustration. Short. Three brush motors , four at most. Unless I go with these motors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nH9rSwmHiy0&list=PLOEjVa2HwF1uKZ5WJsv7RsyNpkBUce_QR

I watched the video and was impressed. That is the #1 main advantage of brush vs brushless design. I do not believe that would be possible with small brushless motors. On a trailer six or eight could be possible and still not be very long. Also they do not require high voltage. Probably 24V so two old car batteries would run it on the trailer for a few miles of fun. SLAs or LIFE batteries if you wanted a daily commuter.

Another thing I noticed was the extra sprockets and short chain. All those issues of chain alignment and chain tension SOLVED.
That e bike is very impressive. Could hook up like the video then put eight more on the trailer. LTOs on the trailer and LIFEPO4s on board. Should reach highway speeds at least until the batteries die. I would invest in good tires on the e bike and the rear wheel.

I think it is an awesome idea. However I need to finish my LTO packs. It would be a great project for the three SLAs. I could build a really small experimental one. I really do NOT want to run those SLAs on top of my 12S - LIFE. Way too heavy.

The big problem is ambition. I am really lazy. It has been at least 6 months and still working on LTO boxes.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[tomjasz]

So it’s all a head trip and financial folly? I just don’t get why you wouldn’t trick out one or two great builds. What am I missing? My life hasn’t always been roses. I sought out help. When we patented teenage group homes we learned that troubled kids expended more energy being frock ups. Turn the energy into forward progress. I’m sure you realize there are fellas here who give a shit. Listen.

 

[latecurtis]

I’m sure you realize there are fellas here who give a shit. Listen.

I have learned a lot since I started. I did not even know what Lipo was. My Currie came stock with 10 Ah - SLAs, I learned about hub motors and lithium batteries. Gear reduction. brakes. Tires , controllers. Brush and brushless , geared and direct drive hub motors, two or more brush motors on one chain. And I had a lot of fun. Like when I shot the video riding around in Schenectady NY with a 36V controller on fire. :lol: I wish that video was still there. I looked and was gone.

I took a brush motor apart about half a dozen times and put it back together. I learned wiring and soldering. I solder better now than when I started. I also re wired my 26" 1,000W direct drive. That was really hard to take apart but I did it. Someday I will take apart a geared hub motor and rebuild it.

I just don’t get why you wouldn’t trick out one or two great builds.

I really want to do that. It is what I have been saying. At least three.

Right now I am almost finished building the LTOs. I will need solder and some paint and primer. Total weight is < 45 pounds. I doubt I will even run the SLAs together with the 12S LIFE as will be too top heavy I think. Not sure, The 3 SLAs with the box are at 40 pounds. 60 pounds total with the 12S LIFE. The 12S LIFE weighs 20 pounds with the box.

I plan on ordering factory built triangle battery bags or racks. Factory rear racks. Whatever it takes for three maybe four clean builds in the future. I really wanted a 2,000W GEARED hub motor for my 700c hybrid but talked to the guy at BMC motors and he is not producing any more. Stryker 2,000W geared hub motors.

I will need to go with a MAC or something close. I want the Haro V3 , The Giant Roam and the Giant Cypress to be clean builds. Also a 20" Diamondback Viper (Blue) with chrome chopper forks. 1,500W direct drive (rear).

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[kuz]

Regarding the post with this sketch:


The reaction force generated by the unsupported (by terra) wheel will generate force that sooner rather than later rip the real rack clear off the bike shown in the pic. The ripping force vector component is the force pulling the rack opposite to force component "B" on the edited diagram. "B" force will exceed the weight of the trailer. Depending on actual geometry "B" could be twice the weight of the trailer (component "A" on the diagram.) The diagram is not terribly precise but if completed around the actual pivoting point (which is bike rear axle) it'll show that the fore pushing forward on the bike axle is ALSO greater then the weight of the trailer.

So, the circled (upper) aqua bar HAS to go. It adds nothing but trouble. Without it the bike rear axle will be the TRUE pivoting point and only have a small static vertical force to deal with, or could be even free-loaded. NO longitudal ripping forces will be induced by the trailer wheel suspended over a pothole. Speaking of which, the trailer wheel better be positioned further forward for ease of turning sake which may be more important than "weight distribution" lineup shown on your original diagram. You may have to make the trailer wheel almost touch bike's wheel to make the whole affair steerable. I don't know. Your " 2x6 and carriage bolts" design is easily modifiable so you may try different geometries to see what works.

I'll say again, I don't subscribe to any 90 mph or even 70km/h ideas. Your design with the proposed mod may work reasonably well for heavy duty _sensible_ speed load hauling.

I don't have the time right now to deal with the rest of that post. Too many issues there. But I'll say that I wouldn't follow crazy designs like the one in the video you referred. I am sure he did get up to 70 km/h but the small battery may have lasted just the length of the video and the power train required a complete rebuild after a couple runs. We don't know. It's a demo project. Brushed motors do indeed require simpler/cheaper controllers (as opposed to BLDC) but I'd stay with fewer (preferably just one) more powerful units. You may look at "Sick Bike Parts" website for some inspiration:
https://sickbikeparts.com/

I'd also not discount a powerful DD BLDC motor for your application since you are planning to use some form of reduction gear anyway. I'd defer to to more experienced builders here on it though. Of course, if hard core hauling is not what you are trying to do I am barking up the wrong tree.

I must be stating the obvious but if you break your posts into bite-sized chunks it'd be easier for ES members of various backgrounds to comment on specifics. Hewing to a linear string of posts, with each "string" dedicated to a specific design or idea would also help keep it linear and more productive. I don't imply splitting this thread which appears to be doing just fine on its own.

 

[latecurtis]

OK.

I need to read that over a few times.

You seem very knowledgeable about physics.

Also I could improve my organizational skills.

Maybe I can do a different diagram with no top bracket.

What about instead of top bracket using shocks on each side at > 45 degree angle to the rear rack ???? ? They could connect to the top of the trailer. The trailer being about 28" long. Add support and reduce hopping. That force thus being absorbed ; Instead of breaking the rear rack ?

Let me know if you can.

I will work on some designs tomorrow.

Thanks for posting.

LC. out.

 

[kuz]

My knowledge of physics is limited but we are talking about the very basics right now.

I am not sure you DO need shocks for this design. If you plan to use the trailer for hauling heavy loads you mercifully won't go fast so the presumably wide trailer tires provide enough cushioning for the batteries. If you still plan to go fast then I wouldn't worry about the batteries because they would likely outlive you. Speaking hypothetically, if the rig needs to go fast (I think > 40mph) then yes, you'd need some means of damping vertical oscillations. The cheapest way would be to use car shock absorbers but the way they work may bring more trouble then help. They compress fast and expand slow. So after hitting a pothole large enough for the trailer wheel to leave the ground the (slow) expanding shock will tug on the rack with the mass of the trailer multiplied by the purchase created by whatever geometry you'd come up with to mount the upper shock mount. The top mount HAS to be on the bike to matter, which is the problem. Bike rack of a kind shown on your pic is not strong enough for that. At best it'll flex to create more stability issues, or simply break. My first blush idea is to use friction plates at the trailer to bar, on the bike side. I mean a plate (a grossly oversized washer) sitting on - or close to - bike axle. It needs to be fixed to the bike frame so it doesn't rotate (torque arm if you wish.) The plate will rub against the trailed tow bar which will greatly reduce hopping. You'll need to do it on both sides of bike axle. The amount of friction needs to be adjustable to compensate for the plates wearing out. You'd need to isolate the plates from the bike axle nuts. I think you or should offset the tow bar pivot away from the buke axle anyway to avoid interference with axle nuts although it might be possible to pivot on the bike axle. Again, it looks gross but this is just an idea.

BTW, I should have said it earlier, for our rig you'd need something better that 10 or 12 mm axle regular bikes have. Yuba Mundo 14 mm axle looks more trustworthy, although if you get your hands on Mundo with 440 lbs cargo capacity you may reconsider the need for a trailer in the fist place. Mundo will hold up and track better at higher speeds too, making it a better kamikaze tool if you know what am talking about.

Back to high speed idea. If you survive a 90 mph trip, the first cop who sees you do it will develop instant interest in finding out the details of your endeavor. I don't think you would appreciate it. I strongly recommend you to abandon high speed trials until you graduate from 2 x 6 tech to something more substantial AND come up with a way to get you rig to Salt Lake flats.

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLbWHTiLrZs&t=4s

And that is the video I was looking for.

That is not for cargo. He has some type of clutch or something going on. My version would be three 1,000W 36V Unite motors hooked to 50V - 1,388W * 3 = 4,164W.

However.

It looks like he used an RC brushless motor. That works too as the small wheel enables lots of gear reduction for high KV - RC motors. It also would reduce the size and weight. Also most of those RC motors are not that expensive.

I would go with that controller for brush. An RC controller like in the video for brushless.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/334196662375?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D235119%26meid%3D0a841ab85b8244f49c05e3d9261fa6f0%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D254356745297%26itm%3D334196662375%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseWithPLXWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A3341966623750a841ab85b8244f49c05e3d9261fa6f0%7Cenc%3AAQAGAAACAMr5%252BFmPJze70lX%252B%252BwE5FY9DrI1klIuqeLB1o%252BDhacFdTB25KGB0sTVsH3HMJ0KELd7HsdDIUR9DWWZ2dwEHnjW1v4Cr7uIiO%252F17oYfFtIzqbWkYPA3f89pH0SPXjMdCaInekNgiAyhJqptCd%252BjEk4w546m%252FTwC7BqPcCJg7WSYLG8c61tFMMLchpLKHv76yk%252BSfAa4XZmgJmZ6FF3Gs4JOSBbwDpBphoEfifCgAbIRksAFB%252B3cRekP4MEDOMUQBjFEVvYciJUUQTBwlWcqC1YIad2IhEcM4h3K6PmwP6x2Ug6NFVe2oObK%252F3wucH7R2pRX102RBM8i%252BpAk77sdK%252BQDb1KNUUjKDbBEOxCX8k1qQj0ZzAN7OTJq%252FJ%252Fg7QIPB237HOh0L9%252BmxKj4xT8wy4St8WATcRrEqaQS3W8G6VoY%252FE%252F9Py7vFoeQDFElgFYCCLtNoGbE8vmxgxWgms5mLeDsnwfwLATZ%252FXYSWnYIKn%252BhIfidTQpqaj%252FUw8RP0qzw%252B7%252F3Kcje97rd1JY3l81n%252BmT2IvkdvQeQ2SLXY3UJpSErkuDbtE5a%252BKZ%252FT8EZCv69o5DQSdeMXzMdLtt4ENOTv5KU09llF3gvC1%252FeRmjjUIzTnzC29BIl7rmokawfNl459CK6rGcl30HRSnVCzOGik0SR8lq0wH%252FEgEqtoQWv28KsD%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675&epid=8049624302https://www.ebay.com/itm/284464503680?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002726433394.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=9594035441&albag=102695258807&trgt=1478211641016&crea=en1005002726433394&netw=u&device=c&albpg=1478211641016&albpd=en1005002726433394&gclid=Cj0KCQiAt8WOBhDbARIsANQLp95xAcJvGT-Ocj5BH6LbSTimbuHjP5eAVUEehAa-zDCljpBo1YjYWfsaAlMpEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&aff_fcid=ad2310800b7b47cdaf68567bc65f475e-1641166917857-00422-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=ad2310800b7b47cdaf68567bc65f475e-1641166917857-00422-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=a83931813faf4f35bc3795f0703a82d8

At about $60 a pop the motors and controllers are less than $250. Sprocket and chain + steel and plywood < $350.

You were right about the top bar. Not required. Basically the set up in that video looks like the way to go. I will need more information on the axle and how he hooked that up though. Making it small and easy to hook and unhook is the key to making it worthwhile though.

Actually it could fit in a suitcase. Speaking of a suitcase how about that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HazWCa3huMY

Then if you are flying you wont need to bring an e bike. Just put the push trailer inside of that and buy a cheap bike for about $150 when you get where you are going and hook up the push trailer for 30 mph.

That is the real trick. Designing a push trailer small , compact and portable that can hook up to almost any mountain bike or BMX style bike to convert to electric with a couple of wing nuts. Much more practical then something that takes half a day to hook up or a special heavy duty axel. 20 to 30 mph though. Not suicidal speeds. Something the average person could actually use to get around. On a budget.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[calab]

Rc motors spin to fast and need reduction or you go really low kv motor https://alienpowersystem.com/shop/ or find a low kv motor to suit your battery and speed with hobbyking sk8 or go even more backwards with a friction drive. By 3 motors you mean 2 on the bike and one on the trailer?

 

[kuz]

20 to 30 mph though. Not suicidal speeds

:thumb: