jeff.page.rides said:eyebyesickle said:jeff.page.rides said:eyebyesickle
Will you please share where you can buy the 860C for only $5 more?
And if the 860C is way better in the sunlight then both the old 850C and the new 850C? Thanks.
I'm also a little bit confused about why you need to take apart the 860C to flash it, and you don't need to take apart the 850C to flash it?
Thanks
Directly from the manufacturer, bulk order... The cost is only $5 more per unit. If we get it worked out, and it makes sense, I will arrange an associate to place an order and make it available on the market.
There is certain info needed so you don't have to take apart the 860c. The 850c was the same way until I obtained the info from the manufacturer. It can be hard to make them share this info, but I have negotiated with them, as they are also impressed with the work of casainho and other helpers. So we will have it soon...
Yesterday after my post I decided to have my wife take me over to Electrify Bike there not far from my home and they do all the work on my handcycle. https://www.electrifybike.com I asked them what they knew about 860C and to my surprise, they had the 860C in stock and ready to go. They also informed me that they mailed an 860C to casainho and he should have it anytime now. They also informed me that they flashed it before they sent it to casainho with the 850C flash with the same method and it worked, almost. If you hold down the power button while powering up then the display will display but the color mapping is wrong. It goes black when you let go of the power button, so there is something different let’s hope it’s small and easy to overcome.
We also took the 850C the 860C and the LCD3 out into the direct sunlight to compare them. The LCD3 as everyone knows is totally awesome in the sun and any other conditions. The 860C is better than the 850C but only about 20% to 30%, unlike the LCD3, is like 300% better than 850C.
In the photos, you can see what I’m talking about, but it’s not as pronounced as when you’re looking at them yourself in the sun at different angles.
The 860C looks like a higher-end LCD and the mounts are much more adjustable to get the best viewing angle. For 5 bucks more at a wholesale price, it’s definitely worth it. And who knows how useful the fourth button is going to be on the pad.
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It is working for me with these drivers for w10:shodr said:If the same board works on someones win 10 please let me know.
If the issue is win 10, is there some other solution than installing windows 7 or 8 ... (linux version of APT Burn Tools, will flashing through virtual machine of win 7 work - virtualbox).
Tnx
elfnino said:It is working for me with these drivers for w10:shodr said:If the same board works on someones win 10 please let me know.
If the issue is win 10, is there some other solution than installing windows 7 or 8 ... (linux version of APT Burn Tools, will flashing through virtual machine of win 7 work - virtualbox).
Tnx
https://www.silabs.com/products/development-tools/software/usb-to-uart-bridge-vcp-drivers
You might have to force windows to update drivers manually (via Control Panel>System>Devices) by selecting the driver path..
lvx_xvl said:Hi all,
I'm having trouble connection the ST Link V2 to the TSDZ2 through the speedsensors plug, and I would like to know what the best trouble shooting tips are.
lvx_xvl said:I can use the ST Link V2 dongle with no problems for the 850C display, and other stm32 boards, it works perfectly.
I bought a second ST Link V2 dongle but the problem keeps the same.
lvx_xvl said:Hi all,
I'm having trouble connection the ST Link V2 to the TSDZ2 through the speedsensors plug, and I would like to know what the best trouble shooting tips are.
My setup:
TSDZ2 with the stock firmware and with the stock VLCD5 display ( I have to 850C display programmed (with the Flexible Opensource firmware) and ready to go on the bike).
I've bought a second speedsensor cable so I could split it, and use it with the ST Link V2 dongle.
Then I've tried to use the dupont cables directly, with crimp sleeves over the ends
I've even shortened them to 4cm, but still no success.
I've tried to run from Win10 with the STVP software and from Linux with stm8flash tools.
On every occasion the communication doesn't want to initiate, Win 10 error is: 'cannot communicate with device' and from Linux I get: 'Tries exceeded'
I've triple checked the wiring and pin layout....but without any success. I read stories on this board if people retrying over and over until they finally get it to work, but for me....up till now without success.
I can use the ST Link V2 dongle with no problems for the 850C display, and other stm32 boards, it works perfectly.
I bought a second ST Link V2 dongle but the problem keeps the same.
Can someone tell me if there is another way, or point me to some important information about this. I've read the ST documentation about SWIM connection. They point out to use a 400Ohm resistor in series.
best regards,
LVX
I would try with computer powered with battery only or charger.lvx_xvl said:@skestans: I didn't know you can update the ST link dongles. I will check on that. Funny that the stm8flash tools only work for you. That for me means it is not the hardware that is failing. This actually triggered me that maybe my laptop is the trouble maker. I only have a macbook to try next. I hope it isn't my windows/linux laptop. I will definitely try that to....
Elinx said:Jbalat has tested the 36V values FOC angle 115 and MOTOR_OVER_SPEED_ERPS 700 for higher cadence the best settings.casainho said:What I know is that the values on firmware were the ones choosen and tested by Jabalat.eyebyesickle said:Previously, it only said 'expert' and did not specify a voltage. Which voltage was it for?.....
maximusdm did tests for 48V and found FOC angle 220 and MOTOR_OVER_SPEED_ERPS 900 values are the best settings.
These last values haven't been added to the later releases, so eventually do this yourself. (motor.c and main.h)
silentguy said:General question
I just installed a 36v tsdz2 motor and 850c display that came pre flashed with v19 of the OSF.
Is there any physical difference between the 36v motor (as identified by sticker in motor case) and the 52v motor ? Are they the same motor. ?
I’m wondering if I should have gotten the 48V/52v motor, however I wasnt given a choice.
Just told it was 750 Watts.
I’ve successfully used up to 60v on the motor , but limited the current to 16A.
I just don’t want to melt the motor.
Cristian said:A short heads up regarding the battery stock in the EU. I spoke with UnitPackPower and they said that the corona virus is making imports difficult. I'm still waiting for a 52V 17.5Ah battery pack. Meanwhile, does anyone else have a different choice on batteries, 52V preferably?
I just ordered a TSDZ2 from PSWPower and i made a mistake. I ordered the XH18 display with no ebrakes. The motor came with a 6-pin connector and i have the cable in the attached picture with a 850C display to get OSF working with brake sensors and temp sensor. Can it be done? Or should i order another controller with the correct cables attached and swap it?
PSWPower used to send out all units with 8Pin connectors until recently when we too ordered a motor without brakes etc and it turned up with an 6 pin connector.Dang that was a real pain.Cristian said:just ordered a TSDZ2 from PSWPower and i made a mistake. I ordered the XH18 display with no ebrakes. The motor came with a 6-pin connector and i have the cable in the attached picture with a 850C display to get OSF working with brake sensors and temp sensor. Can it be done? Or should i order another controller with the correct cables attached and swap it?
obcd said:60V and 16A makes 960W and will melt your motor unless you have a temperature sensor installed that automatically reduces the motor current.